Hamilton to Clarksville

Click the map for route details

Along the flood plains to Quincy
From the Hamilton city campground, I left early and headed straight south, through Warsaw, which is presumably named after the capital of Poland, but I could not detect much Polishness there.

Downtown Warsaw, long after its glory days

After Warsaw, the route left the Mississippi River banks and instead followed the edge of the flood plain, which is vast.

Grass, corn, levee, corn, river: the Mississippi flood plain

The scenery, though intriguing at first, quickly grew tiresome as corn fields became dominant and the wind kept blowing from the south, right into my face.

I did encounter another cyclist, however, who was standing over his bike, which had a flat tire, for the fourth time today. He was a local, had already called his wife to pick him up, so he no longer had a problem. Evidently a bicycle enthusiast, he told me that he had started riding regularly after his retirement at 65, since when he had ridden 128,000 miles, which came to 19.2 miles per day every day until his 83rd birthday. How much do you ride?

The next town was Quincy, another German town, was named after the sixth president of the United States, John Quincy Adams. That's about all I have on Quincy. It, too, seems to have seen better days.

US Highway 24 crossing the Mississippi into Quincy

Hannibal
From Quincy, it was a quick ride to Interstate 72, which crossed the Mississippi River into Hannibal, Missouri.

Entering Missouri

Hannibal is instant Mark Twain overload. I like Mark Twain as much as the next guy, maybe more, but this was just too much, bordering on the ridiculous. Actually, definitely ridiculous. Fact and fiction mix in Hannibal, character of Twain's novels become historical figures, with houses that they lived in, and even Mark Twain is still alive and doing standup routines. I wish he actually was still alive and able to comment on all this, it would be fun to read.

Mark Twain museum, gifts, tours, shows, and yes, fried chicken

Tom, Huck and their gang forever

I spent several hours in a coffee shop in Hannibal because the early afternoon heat was just too much to ride through, and I had some blog-writing to catch up with. I left again at about 4:30pm, and it was still so hot, I couldn't even spell stupid. Of course, the terrain south of Hannibal was no longer flat either, but hilly, except for a short stretch along the river.

Rolling along the Mississippi

But soon the road left the Mississippi and turned inland.

Leaving the Mississippi

Honestly, I don't mind climbing at all. In fact, I like it. I'm definitely not built for it, but it is a challenge and the top of a hill is always a good goal to work for. It passes the time. And I don't mind ridiculous heat much either, as long as I have enough water. It keeps the joints and muscles loose. So all in all, it was a very enjoyable evening ride, with some beautiful vistas.

Taking a break over the Mississippi

Louisiana and Clarksville
I had dinner at a Subway in Louisiana, which is a quaint little southern town right by the Mississippi. It also has some chemical industry.

Louisiana: little town, big industry

After dinner, a quick digestive ride to a boat landing outside of Clarksville that was marked as a campground.

Camping by the Mississippi

It was nice to be right by the Mississippi for the night. It was less nice to not be able to shower after 100 miles in the sweltering heat (described as "miserable" by the locals, by the way, so this is not just the perception of a soft northerner), but a little Mississippi water on arms and legs helped. Sort of.

What followed was a real treat. I was not alone by the river and was invited to party around the campfire of my neighbors, who, having come up from St. Louis with a couple of choppers and trucks, were staging their own private Sturgis. I first set up my campsite while it was still light out, then went over to see what all the raucous was about. It was mostly fuelled by Gator Juice, which, for the uninitiated among you, is Gatorade and vodka, and the O brother, where art though? soundtrack. I thankfully declined the juice and opted for a coke instead, then settled into my lawn chair and enjoyed the evening.

Two guys (mid to late thirties, perhaps?) and their respective girlfriends were up visiting one of the girls' cousins, who was from Clarksville. They do this every year, set themselves up nicely in the park, and get loaded. It was a good time, but what happens in Clarksville stays in Clarksville. I was fading fast anyway, and when three of them went off skinny-dipping in the Mississippi, I bid the others good night and went into my tent for the night.

Above me, the fireflies were putting on an amazing show in the trees, apparently eager to outshine the stars, which are incredible around here. I watched for a while, then quickly drifted off to sleep to the tune of Pink Floyd's "Comfortably Numb."

Life is good.

Mississippi River Crossings
Only one today, and on an interstate highway, no less. Not the nicest way to see the Great River, but here it is.

Mississippi River Crossing 26 - Upstream

Road Kill Tally

1. Racoon: 69
2. Opossum: 21
3. Skunk: 17
4. Frog: 14
5. Groundhog: 13
6. Deer: 13
7. Cat: 13
8. Squirrel: 9
9. Mouse: 7
10. Bunnywabbit: 6
11. Snake: 5
12. Turtle: 4
13. Fox: 3
14. Mole: 2
15. Dog: 2
16. Porcupine: 1
17. Chipmunk: 1

• Bird: 74